99 Things You Can Compost: The Ultimate Guide to Less Waste and Better Soil

If you’ve been looking for a practical, planet-friendly way to turn everyday waste into gardening gold, this guide to 99 Things You Can Compost is for you. Whether you’re new to composting or refining your routine, you’ll find a complete, safe, and creative list—plus simple tips to keep your bin healthy, odor-free, and productive.

For city dwellers who want to pair zero-waste habits with preparedness skills, explore URBAN strategies with the URBAN Survival Code for compact, resilient living.

Composting basics for clean, fast results

Composting is the controlled decomposition of organic materials. Microbes, moisture, and oxygen break down scraps into a crumbly, dark material called humus. The result improves soil structure, water retention, aeration, and nutrient availability.

• Browns vs. greens: Browns are dry, carbon-rich materials (leaves, paper, straw). Greens are moist, nitrogen-rich materials (fruit and veggie scraps, coffee grounds, fresh grass). A classic starting ratio is roughly 2–3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume. Adjust based on moisture and smell.
• Particle size: Chop materials into smaller pieces to speed decomposition. Break up thick rinds, cobs, and stems.
• Moisture: Aim for “wrung-out sponge” moisture—damp, not soggy. If it’s too wet, add more browns and aerate. Too dry? Add more greens or a splash of water.
• Aeration: Oxygen keeps the process aerobic and odor-free. Turn your pile every week or two, or use a tumbler for easier mixing.
• Heat: Hot composting (130–160°F / 54–71°C) can process materials quickly and reduce weed seeds and pathogens. Cold composting is slower but easier, perfect for low-maintenance bins.
• Systems: Choose among a simple pile, enclosed bin, tumbler, worm bin (vermicomposting), or Bokashi (fermentation that then feeds a soil trench). Some items are best suited to specific systems—notes are included below.

Pro tip for dry climates: Your compost can stall without consistent moisture. If you rely on collected or stored water, keep your bin hydrated with efficient systems like SmartWaterBox to make every drop count for your garden and compost.

99 Things You Can Compost from the kitchen

Food scraps are the easiest entry point to cutting your trash in half. Keep a countertop pail with a snug lid, dump into your outdoor bin regularly, and cover with browns to prevent fruit flies.

1. Fruit peels (banana, mango, citrus; citrus in moderation for worm bins)
2. Apple cores
3. Melon rinds (chop into chunks)
4. Avocado skins and pits (pits take a long time; smash first)
5. Stone fruit pits (will take a long time; smash or exclude if you want speed)
6. Berry hulls and tops
7. Grapes and stems
8. Tomato trimmings
9. Vegetable peels (carrot, potato, beet, etc.)
10. Onion and garlic skins
11. Pepper cores and stems
12. Corn cobs (break up)
13. Corn husks (shred)
14. Pumpkin and squash rinds
15. Coffee grounds
16. Coffee filters (paper, unbleached preferred)
17. Tea leaves (remove staples; avoid plastic “silken” bags)
18. Spent herbs (cilantro, parsley, basil—fresh or wilted)
19. Stale bread (plain, in small amounts; avoid oily or buttery toppings)
20. Plain cooked grains (rice, quinoa; add sparingly and cover well)
21. Plain cooked vegetables (no oils or sauces)
22. Expired spices (mix into greens—great for odor control)
23. Eggshells (crush; they add calcium but break down slowly)
24. Citrus pulp and pith (moderation; mix with browns)
25. Edible seaweed scraps (nori, kombu—rinse excess salt; adds trace minerals)

Kitchen items to limit or handle carefully:

• Avoid meat, fish, oily foods, and dairy in traditional compost—they attract pests and can cause odors. These are better for Bokashi systems followed by soil trenching.
• Don’t add large amounts of salty or sugary foods to your main bin.

99 Things You Can Compost from the yard and garden

Garden and yard debris are the backbone of a healthy carbon-to-nitrogen balance. They help build structure and aeration in your pile.

26. Grass clippings (mix with browns to prevent matting)
27. Dry leaves (shred for faster breakdown; leaf mold is a composting superfood)
28. Small twigs and sticks (chip or break up)
29. Pruned stems and soft trimmings
30. Spent annuals and seasonal flowers (disease-free)
31. Deadheaded blooms
32. Non-invasive weeds before they set seed
33. Weeds with seeds (only in hot compost; otherwise avoid)
34. Garden plant stalks (chop corn, sunflower, okra)
35. Pine needles (acidic and slow; use sparingly for diversity)
36. Hay (seed risk; mix well and monitor volunteers)
37. Straw (excellent brown; great for structure)
38. Mulch fines (untreated wood chips, small amounts)
39. Sawdust from untreated wood (balance with greens)
40. Wood shavings (untreated; mix well)
41. Spent potting soil (remove synthetic fertilizer beads if present)
42. Dead houseplants (disease-free; remove plastic ties)
43. Christmas tree needles and small branches (chop; untreated only)
44. Hedge trimmings (chop; avoid synthetic twine)
45. Wood ash (very small amounts; raises pH and adds potassium—do not use ash from charcoal briquettes or treated wood)

Tip: To keep garden composting efficient during dry spells, collect rainwater or graywater safely. Modular catchment towers like Aqua Tower can help keep your pile evenly moist without tapping your main supply.

99 Things You Can Compost from paper, cardboard, and wood fiber

Paper and cardboard products add valuable carbon and absorb excess moisture. Avoid glossy, heavily inked, or plastic-coated products.

46. Shredded newspaper (black-and-white, soy inks preferred)
47. Office paper (non-glossy, no plastic windows)
48. Paper towels (used for water or food spills—avoid harsh chemicals)
49. Paper napkins (plain, uncoated)
50. Toilet paper rolls
51. Paper towel tubes
52. Cardboard (corrugated; remove tape and labels; shred or soak)
53. Cardboard egg cartons (shred for faster breakdown)
54. Brown paper bags (shred)
55. Kraft paper and packing paper (no plastic coating)
56. Uncoated paper plates (small pieces; avoid grease-soaked sections)
57. Pizza boxes (only the clean cardboard; greasy portions can be Bokashi’d)
58. Junk mail envelopes (no plastic windows; remove adhesives where possible)
59. Non-glossy greeting cards (no foil, glitter, or plastic)
60. Wine corks made of natural cork (chop finely for faster breakdown)

Note: Be conservative with colored inks and adhesives. When in doubt, leave it out.

99 Things You Can Compost from natural fibers and household organics

Natural materials break down into nutrient-rich humus and help diversify your pile’s microbial life.

61. 100% cotton fabric scraps (small pieces; remove elastic and synthetics)
62. Linen fabric scraps
63. Wool yarn and fabric (small amounts; slow but valuable)
64. Silk fabric scraps
65. Burlap (jute or hemp; cut into strips)
66. Jute twine and sisal rope (natural, uncoated)
67. Hemp cord (uncoated)
68. Natural bamboo skewers and chopsticks (break into pieces)
69. Wooden toothpicks and coffee stirrers (untreated)
70. Wooden popsicle sticks (natural wood; break up)
71. Human hair clippings (adds nitrogen; scatter to prevent matting)
72. Pet fur from dogs/cats (from brushing; avoid if treated with flea medication)
73. Nail clippings (human/pet; small amounts)
74. Feathers (clean; small amounts)
75. Loofah sponges (natural, not synthetic)
76. Natural sea sponges (unbleached)
77. Dryer lint (only if washing mostly natural fibers)
78. Vacuum dust (if household is mostly natural fibers and minimal debris)
79. Paper cotton swabs (paper stems; 100% cotton tips)
80. Cotton balls (100% cotton; avoid synthetic “cotton”)

Caution: Many common “natural-looking” items may be blended with synthetics. Check labels—if it stretches like spandex or looks glossy like polyester, don’t compost it.

99 Things You Can Compost: oddities, manures, and specialty additions

The items below are compostable with the right method. Always balance with browns, manage moisture, and use hot composting for manures unless noted.

81. Rabbit manure (safe to use directly or compost; “cold” manure)
82. Cow manure (hot compost to reduce pathogens)
83. Horse manure (often contains grass seeds; hot compost)
84. Sheep or goat manure (hot compost; great N source)
85. Chicken manure (very high nitrogen; hot compost and age well)
86. Alpaca or llama manure (lower odor; hot compost recommended)
87. Quail manure (hot compost; similar to chicken)
88. Duck or goose manure (hot compost; waterfowl bedding adds carbon)
89. Spent mushroom substrate or blocks (fantastic fungal boost)
90. Spent brewers’ grains (wet and nitrogen-rich; mix with browns)
91. Kombucha SCOBY trimmings (chop small; compost or feed to worms)
92. Sourdough starter discard (small amounts; mix well to avoid clumping)
93. Plain air-popped popcorn (no butter/oil/salt; crush)
94. Stale crackers or plain cereals (small amounts; mix under browns)
95. Aquarium plant trimmings (freshwater; avoid salty or medicated tanks)
96. Used freshwater aquarium water (adds diluted nitrogen; moisten piles)
97. Seaweed/kelp from clean beaches (rinse to reduce salt; trace minerals)
98. Jack-o’-lanterns and decorative gourds (remove candles, wax, and décor)
99. Floral bouquets (remove rubber bands, wire, and florist wrap; avoid foam)

What not to compost:

• Pet waste from carnivores (dog/cat feces), cat litter (clay or scented), and diapers.
• Diseased plants or pest-infested materials unless hot composting is reliable.
• Glossy, plastic-coated, or glittered paper products; vacuum dust heavy with synthetics.
• Treated wood, pressure-treated sawdust, or ashes from charcoal briquettes.
• Large amounts of salty, oily, or sugary foods in traditional aerobic compost.

Layering, balancing, and method tips for all 99 items

• Start with a carbon-rich base: A few inches of sticks, straw, or shredded cardboard at the bottom improves airflow and drainage.
• Layer as you go: Alternate a bucket of greens with 1–2 buckets of browns; cover fresh food scraps immediately to deter flies.
• Maintain moisture: If the pile is dry, add greens or watered-down aquarium water; if wet, add shredded cardboard or dry leaves and mix.
• Turn regularly: Every 1–2 weeks is ideal for hot compost; more frequent turning boosts speed and oxygen.
• Target temperature: A hot pile reaches 130–160°F (54–71°C). Use a compost thermometer for accuracy, or watch for steam on cool mornings.
• Adjust texture: Chop rinds, cobs, stalks, and woody bits. Shred paper and cardboard to avoid matting.
• Add inoculants if needed: A handful of finished compost, garden soil, or mushroom substrate can “seed” your pile with microbes.
• Urban solutions: For apartments, try a worm bin (avoid citrus and spicy foods in excess) or Bokashi for cooked foods and small amounts of dairy/meat, followed by soil trenching in a planter or community garden.
• Timing: Fast hot piles can finish in 6–8 weeks; cold piles often take 6–12 months. Screening finished compost helps remove stubborn bits for the next batch.

Midway through your compost journey, consider building resilience beyond waste reduction—smart water storage like SmartWaterBox or modular collection such as Aqua Tower can keep your pile productive year-round and your garden thriving.

Troubleshooting common compost problems

• Sour or rotten smell: Too wet or too many greens. Add shredded cardboard, dry leaves, and turn to add air. Check for compacted zones and break them up.
• Ammonia odor: Excess nitrogen. Add browns (straw, paper), turn more frequently, and avoid large dumps of fresh manure without balancing.
• Dry and inactive: Not enough moisture or nitrogen. Add water gradually, mix in fruit and veggie scraps, or include a small dose of manure or coffee grounds.
• Fruit flies: Always cover kitchen scraps with a 2–3 inch layer of browns. Consider freezing scraps first or using a sealed kitchen caddy.
• Pests (rodents, raccoons): Avoid meat, fish, and dairy in traditional piles. Use secure bins, hardware cloth under piles, and always cover fresh scraps.
• Weeds sprouting in compost: Ensure sustained hot composting for weed seeds, or avoid seed-heavy materials altogether. If unsure, solarize or hot-compost longer.
• Worm bin smells: Overfeeding or too wet. Remove excess food, add bedding (shredded cardboard), and increase airflow. Avoid citrus and spicy foods in large amounts.

How to use finished compost

• Soil amendment: Work 1–2 inches into the top 6–8 inches of vegetable beds and borders.
• Mulch: Spread 1–3 inches around perennials, trees, and shrubs to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
• Potting blends: Mix screened compost with coco coir or peat and perlite for a living potting mix.
• Compost tea: Aerate compost in water with a gentle food source (like unsulfured molasses) for a day to brew a microbe-rich solution for soil (use promptly; avoid foliar application on edible leaves unless you understand safe brewing practices).
• Lawn topdressing: Sift compost and broadcast thinly after aerating turf.

Take the next step in resilient living

Composting reduces waste, builds soil, and cuts gardening costs. If you want to expand your self-reliant toolkit alongside your compost system:

• Learn pantry-ready preservation ideas that pair beautifully with garden harvests enriched by compost in The Lost SuperFoods.
• Keep home wellness references at your fingertips with Home Doctor, a practical resource for everyday care and emergencies.

Recommended resources for compost-powered resilience

• For water-wise gardening and compost moisture management: SmartWaterBox
• For compact water collection modules that pair with urban bins or small gardens: Aqua Tower
• For urban self-reliance skills to complement balcony or community garden composting: URBAN Survival Code
• For preservation ideas that reduce kitchen waste and maximize harvests: The Lost SuperFoods
• For health preparedness at home: Home Doctor

Conclusion

With these 99 Things You Can Compost, turning everyday discards into rich, living soil becomes second nature. Start with simple kitchen scraps, fold in yard browns, and layer paper fibers to keep the mix balanced. Within weeks to months, you’ll have a steady stream of dark, crumbly compost that makes your garden healthier, more resilient, and more abundant—while your trash can gets lighter. Keep this list handy, experiment with methods, and enjoy the satisfaction of closing the loop at home.

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